Phase 1: Preparation (The Most Critical Step)
Skipping these steps often leads to peeling or bubbling later.
- Test for Moisture: Tape a 2-foot square of plastic sheeting to the floor for 24–48 hours. If water droplets form underneath, the concrete is too damp for epoxy without a specialized moisture barrier.
- Clean & Degrease: Sweep and vacuum thoroughly. Use a heavy-duty degreaser or concrete cleaner to remove oil and grease stains, scrubbing with a stiff brush.
- Repair Cracks: Fill any holes or cracks with a concrete patching compound or epoxy filler. Sand these repairs flush once dry.
- Profile the Surface: For epoxy to “bite,” the concrete must be rough, like sandpaper.
- Mechanical Grinding: Professionals prefer diamond grinders for the best adhesion.
- Acid Etching: A DIY-friendly alternative using a muriatic acid solution to open the concrete’s pores. Warning: Always wear protective gear and rinse thoroughly.
Phase 2: Application
- Apply Primer: Use a roller to apply a thin, even epoxy primer coat. This seals the concrete and prevents air bubbles from rising into the main coat.
- Mix the Epoxy: Combine the resin (Part A) and hardener (Part B) exactly as directed. Use a drill mixer for 3–5 minutes. Note: Once mixed, you typically have only 45–60 minutes of “pot life” before it hardens.
- Apply the Base Coat:
- Cut in: Use a brush for edges and corners.
- Roll out: Use a 3/8-inch nap roller to spread the epoxy in “M” or “W” patterns, working from the back of the room toward the exit.
- Broadcast Decorative Flakes (Optional): While the base coat is wet, toss decorative flakes upward to let them fall evenly over the surface.
- Apply the Topcoat: After the base coat has cured (usually 10–24 hours), apply a clear polyurethane or epoxy topcoat to protect against scratches and UV damage.
Phase 3: Curing
- Foot Traffic: Usually safe after 24 hours.
- Vehicle Traffic: Wait at least 72 hours to 7 days before driving on the surface to prevent “hot tire pick-up” where tires peel the epoxy off.